our Toxic Fashion

Thrifted Transformations

Reduce, reuse and recycle. These are common, but great ways, to eliminate waste and help maintain the environment and they also apply to the fashion industry. By reducing the amount of clothes you buy, reusing the clothes you already have and recycling the clothes you would have otherwise not used or even worse, thrown away, you are already well on your way to becoming an ecological shopper. Now reducing and reusing sound like rather straightforward tips, but for recycling you might need some inspiration. Luckily, there is plenty of inspiration out there.

Thrifted Transformations

Let me introduce you to April, or better known as Coolirpa, the name of her Youtube account. April is a YouTuber who loves to thrift and transforms her thrifted findings into the latest fashion. On her Youtube account, she shares these videos with her 900.000 followers, showing them all the possibilities their old clothes offer in a DIY - Do It Yourself manner. Whether it is an old blouse from your father or an old skirt from your grandma, April knows what to do.

op 07:00

Sustainable Sunday Quote #4

What is a goal-oriented blog without a little inspiration and motivation from time to time? Let me introduce you to the weekly Sunday rubric of Our Toxic Fashion: the Sustainable Sunday Quote. In the words of the legendary John Lennon, some say that I am a dreamer, but I am not the only one. Many clever minds before me have spoken, written or sung beautiful words that deserve to be shared. From fashionistas like Coco Channel to environmentalists like Anna Lappé, on Sundays, Our Toxic Fashion will give them a stage! Ready for the fourth one?

The Sustainable Sunday Quote

“Reducing our levels of consumption will not be a sacrifice but a bonus if we simply redefine the meaning of the word 'succes.' ”

Write it down

So from now on, shout it from the rooftops, write it on the skylines, or perhaps just make a note in your agenda: Every Sunday from now on there will be a new SSQ!

Stay fashionable, stay sustainable.

Until next time!

Ps. Bonus points for the ones who got the lyric references hidden within the texts.

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References:

op 07:00

Trashion

Bag Lady, modelled by Christine Spehar - Source: theguardian.com / Photograph: Monching Flores

The 13th of September, the day the blogpost about plastic pollution was published, the headline of the Guardian caught my attention. "Trashion' designer Marina DeBris turns ocean rubbish into high-end outfits – in pictures". Perhaps the topic was still so fresh in my mind that I was unconsciously looking for it. In any case, it is interesting enough to share it here.

The article told the story of artist Marina DeBris, who is campaigning against ocean pollution. To generate awareness for the problem she creates garments from garbage found in the ocean or at the beach. The video below gives a nice little sneak peak of her art.

Where can you see this?

If you are by any chance in Sydney, then definitely visit her exhibition at the Bondi Pavilion Gallery at Sydney's Bondi Beach. And hurry, as you only have until the 17th of Septmeber to do so!

Stay fashionable, stay sustainable.

Until next time!

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References:

The Guardian. (2016). 'Trashion' designer Marina DeBris turns ocean rubbish into high-end outfits – in pictures. Retrieved from: https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/gallery/2016/sep/13/trashion-designer-marina-debris-turns-ocean-rubbish-into-high-end-outfits-in-pictures
Marina DeBris. (n.d.). Marina DeBris. Retrieved from: http://weadartists.org/artist/marinadebris

op 07:00

BYOB

Did I really just encourage my readers to bring their own beer? Well actually, no. I am sorry if I got you all excited, but I will not be throwing a party. Instead, I want to discuss a more serious topic. One that is often not directly linked to fashion pollution, but which I personally perceive as being part of the problem: Plastic. More specifically, the plastic bags we get while shopping (for instance for clothes) and the plastic fibers in our clothes. What this has to do with BYOB? You will have to read the article to find out.

So what is plastic exactly?

Plastic, according to the Britannica Encyclopaedia, is "polymeric material that has the capability of being molded or shaped, usually by the application of heat and pressure." Now let's take a step back to examine this definition a bit closer. Polymeric material means that it is a molecule that consists of multiple (semi)identical parts that are bound together. Plastic is then the polymeric material that has the property of plasticity, and can hence change in form. Some plastics are actually natural, however, most are man-made.
How we make plastics? Since plastics contain many carbon compounds, we need a carbon-rich material for that: Oil. Oil is composed of units of shorter carbon-containing parts (monomers). To create a wide range of plastics chemists have to combine different monomers and arrange them differently. Resulting in various types of plastic. For instance water bottles as you buy them in stores are often made of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), hard plastic - like in food containers - is referred to as foamed polystyrene, flexible thicker plastic - for instance, used for garden hoses - is called polyvinyl chloride(PVC), and shatterproof windows are made of polymethyl methacrylate. Most of these plastics are chemically inert, meaning that they will not chemically react with other substances such as acid, alcohol or even water. Hence, you can keep these substances in plastic containers. So plastics can hold various substances, can be molded into all kinds of forms and shapes ánd can hence be used for all kinds of purposes! What is the problem?

The downside of plastic

Since plastic does not chemically react with most other substances, it will not decay. Hence, plastic can actually stay in the environment for centuries! With our increased use of it, it enters the environment more and more, causing a big problem. A lot of this plastic pollution ends up in our oceans, polluting the ecosystem by the fragmentation of plastic waste. A research paper by Eriksen et al. estimated that "at least 5.25 trillion plastic particles (weighing 268,940) tons are currently floating at sea". This is often referred to as the "plastic soup".

Researchers are working on developing biodegradable plastics (often made from substances such as corn oil). However, for now, most plastics are still not biodegradable, hence recycling is the best method of disposal.

BYOB or not?

So let me answer the burning question you all, what does plastic pollution have to do with BYOB? Well, since plastic pollution is largely caused by humans, the solution lies in our own hands. We should all start consuming a little less plastic. For instance by bringing our own water bottles and food containers or by Bringing Your Own Bag. This way we can decrease the demand for new plastic and hence decrease the production.

So let's BYOB everyone! So that next time when you do have that beer, you can toast on a cleaner world!

Cheers!

Stay fashionable, stay sustainable.

Until next time!

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References:

Eriksen, M., Lebreton, L. C., Carson, H. S., Thiel, M., Moore, C. J., Borerro, J. C., & Reisser, J. (2014). Plastic pollution in the world's oceans: more than 5 trillion plastic pieces weighing over 250,000 tons afloat at sea. PloS one, 9(12), e111913.

FREUDENRICH, C. (n.d.). How Plastics Work. HowStuffWorks. Retrieved from: http://science.howstuffworks.com/plastic.htm
Plastic. (2016). In Encyclopaedia Britannica. Retrieved from: https://www.britannica.com/topic/plastic
Polymer. (2016). In Encyclopaedia Britannica. Retrieved from: https://global.britannica.com/science/polymer

op 07:00

Sustainable Sunday Quote #3

The Sustainable Sunday Quote

“What we are doing to the forests of the world is but a mirror reflection of what we are doing to ourselves and to one another.”

You might actually have heard these words before, as these are the wise words of Mahatma Gandhi. Gandhi is mainly known for his pacifist teaching of tolerance, not harming any living beings and his vegetarianism. Ever since he was born in the 19th century, he has been a great inspiration for many. Today, he was also the inspiration for this blog post. Even though the quote on first sight might have more to do with ethical fashion than sustainable fashion, in this case, the two are - in my opinion - highly connected. In the current consumer culture we are constantly striving to own the latest, the newest and the trendiest, without thinking much about the consequences, on both humans and ecosystems involved.

Starting with the ecosystems, as these not only provide us with resources but actually provide us with various services. During the Millennium Ecosystem Assesment, these services were divided into four groups: (1) producing drinkable water, (2) stabilizing the climate, (3) supporting the food chain (for instance crop pollination) and lastly (4) providing recreation for humans. This might sound rather straightforward. However, this fact that we as humans actually need our ecosystems to provide us with these services, is a fact the fashion industry often 'forgets' to take into account.

The ecosystems are being overlooked and that, all for fashion. Which brings me to the next Gandhi quote: "There is no beauty in the finest cloth if it makes hunger and unhappiness."

Write it down

So from now on, shout it from the rooftops, write it on the skylines, or perhaps just make a note in your agenda: Every Sunday from now on there will be a new SSQ!

Stay fashionable, stay sustainable.

Until next time!

Ps. Bonus points for the ones who got the lyric references hidden within the texts.

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References:

http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/fact-cards/people
http://www.history.co.uk/biographies/mahatma-gandhi

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What is wrong with fashion?

Fashion is a way to express myself. A way to remind myself of who I want to be, or as Orsola de Castro formulated it very nicely “Fashion is our chosen skin.” As an ex-fashion blogger, I truly enjoyed diving into fashion; trying out new outfits, going through the latest fashion news and hunting for the best fashion bargains in the high streets. I lived, and still live, by the motto of Coco Chanel: “Every day is a fashion show and the world is your runway.” However, even though I love fashion with every fibre of my being, I am also starting to become more and more aware of the ugly shadow behind all that beauty.

Fashion VS apparel

The fashion industry was not always an ugly industry though. To understand where it went wrong, we have to start with the basics: We have to understand the difference between the fashion industry and the apparel industry. According to the Britannica Encyclopaedia, the fashion industry produces so-called “high fashion” whereas the apparel industry produces “mass fashion”. In other words, the fashion industry creates clothes for the higher classes, and the apparel industry creates clothes for people like you and me. This differentiation happened somewhere during the industrial revolution. Before the industrial revolution in the early 19th century, people had to make their own clothes. The apparel industry was introduced to make this process more manageable.

The globalisation of the apparel industry

Simultaneously, due to social and cultural changes in the 20th century, less restrictive dress codes were allowed. Fashion designers used this as an opportunity to establish the first fashion houses in Europe. Between the 1950s and the 1960s these designers started to become brands. By the 1980s some of them became so popular, that designers like Ralph Lauren, Bill Blass and Calvin Klein had become celebrities. The apparel industry also developed around this time, becoming more global and moving the production to countries offering inexpensive labor. This, and technologic development in the areas of retail, logistics, manufacturing, and design improved efficiency in the apparel industry. Driven by the pursuit of profitability, many apparel retailers, started to rise. And this, this is where it went wrong.

Who is producing our clothes?

So what is wrong with the fashion industry? Before the 1960s, 95% of the clothes worn by Americans were produced in America. Today, that is solely 3%! The fact that so much of the production is outsourced to cheap labor countries is not only ethically questionable, it is also negatively affecting the environment in various ways:

#1 - Outsourcing the production process to cheap labor countries increased the need for transportation - increasing the emission of chemicals like CO2.

#2 - To produce the clothes, dangerous chemicals (such as Nonylphenol Ethoxylates) are being used, often ending up polluting the groundwater.

Next to that, even though the production is now being outsourced to cheap labour countries the costs of producing clothes have gone up. Oddly enough, the prices of the clothes have undergone deflation, yet the apparel industry is one of the most profitable industries. How that works brings me to the third issue regarding the environment:

#3 - The apparel industry caused mass consumption of fashion, creating an environment in which we need an abundance of clothes and stop valuing each individual item: Today's purchases are tomorrows trash.

All these are complex issues, which deserve to be further explored. Hence, the upcoming blogposts will address these topics. So stay tuned!

Stay fashionable, stay sustainable.

Until next time!

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References:

Fashion industry. (2016). In Encyclopaedia Britannica. Retrieved from: https://www.britannica.com/topic/fashion-industry

Fashion industry history. (n.d.). Retrieved from: http://www.apparelsearch.com/terms/f/fashion_industry_history.html

Greenpeace. (2012). Dirty laundry: reloaded. How big brands are making consumers unwitting accomplices in the toxic water cycle (Research Investigation Report). Retrieved from

http://www.greenpeace.org/international/Global/international/publications/toxics/Water%202012/DirtyLaundryReloaded-ExecSum.pdf

Industrial Revolution. (2009). Retrieved from: http://www.history.com/topics/industrial-revolution

Morgan, A. (Director). (2015). The true cost [Video file]. United States: BullFrog Films.

op 07:00

Sustainable Sunday Quote #2

The Sustainable Sunday Quote

“We can't just consume our way into a more sustainable world.”

This is a quote by Jennifer Nini, activist and founder of The Social Copywriter, but mainly known as the blogger behind Eco Warrior Princess. Jennifer highlights the fact that, no matter what you buy, no matter how sustainable it has been produced, you will still be using resources in the process. The first problem with this is that these resources are not limitless. Take for instance a T-shirt made out of organic cotton. Only 0.7% of all cotton in the world is organic, therefore if we all start buying Tshirts made out of organic cotton, we will not have enough of it. Hence, we not only have to change what we buy, but also how we buy.

Write it down

So from now on, shout it from the rooftops, write it on the skylines, or perhaps just make a note in your agenda: Every Sunday from now on there will be a new SSQ!

Stay fashionable, stay sustainable.

Until next time!

Ps. Bonus points for the ones who got the lyric references hidden within the texts.

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References:
Nini, J. (2016). 60 Great quotes about sustainability, green livin & our environment. Retrieved from: http://ecowarriorprincess.net/2016/01/60-great-quotes-about-sustainability-green-living-our-environment/

Organic cotton facts (2012). Retrieved from Organic trade association: https://ota.com/sites/default/files/indexed_files/Organic-Cotton-Facts.pdf